Canyonlands National Park has three sections; Island in the Sky, the Needles, and the Maze. These sections are separated by the Colorado and Green River and there is no way to access the different sections unless you leave the park. Island in the Sky is the most popular (i.e the most crowded) due to its proximity to Moab, while the Needles is the next most visited section, and the Maze is extremely remote and has limited visitors due to it mostly being backcountry trails. 

 

Coming from Mesa Verde which is southeast of this park (only 2 hours by the way!), we decided to visit the Needles side first. We arrived in the evening and it turns out there is wonderful BLM campground land right outside the entrance of the Needles, called the Superbowl. As I’m a BLM camping expert now – I’ve camped on the public land like two or three times now – I was surprised that it wasn’t actually free. However, it’s only $5 and it’s totally worth it because it is actually maintained more than any other BLM land and even has a bathroom, as well as the proximity to the park. 

 

 

We woke up around sunrise and did some of the recommended easy hikes right off the scenic drive: Roadside Ruin, Cave Spring, and Pothole Point. Roadside Ruin was okay, but nothing to write home about. Pothole Point was a fun hike that had some great views and made me feel I was walking on a remote planet at times. Cave Spring was my favorite though. You get beautiful rock formations, lots of shade, climb two ladders, and see prehistoric petroglyphs and an old cowboy camp which really demonstrates how long this land has been used. 

 

 

Then we did one of the more strenuous hikes; Squaw Canyon to Big Spring Canyon. It’s about 7.5 miles long, with very little shade making it extremely hot. If you do this, definitely do this at sunrise to beat some of the heat. However, it was very pretty and it definitely made me feel like I was on a different planet again. The most important thing I learned on this hike though… Mike is right sometimes. He’s done these sorts of things more than I have, but I refused to listen to him… he wore a long sleeve button up cotton shirt and long pants. I wore a tank top and shorts. He stayed cool and did not get sun poisoning. Andddd, I was the opposite. I still refused to believe that a long sleeve cotton shirt was the way to go, but when we got to the Grand Canyon and there is no way to avoid the sun there, I heeded his advice… and it’s definitely the way to go. So I’ll say this one more time… Mike was right, I was wrong. If you know me, you know I don’t say that easily. 🙂

 

 

While pretending I was not sunburnt and exhausted, Mike and I drove to the Island in the Sky side just in time for sunset at the Grand View Point. Stunning. The light really illuminates the varying colors and formations. 

 

 

The most recommended place for sunrise was Mesa Arch. DO NOT GO HERE. Instead of seeing the sunrise through a beautiful arch, you’ll see dozens of people crowded in the arch, with dozens and dozens more showing up throughout the hour, squeezing wherever they can. 

 

 

I was not feeling my best at this time, and was a bit cranky (but I swear, it was NOT because I had sun poisoning) and I mayyyy have been taking it out on Mike. So, he hiked to Murphy Point and back without me while I rested/pouted. He said he enjoyed this hike and it had some awesome views. I hiked solo to Upheaval Dome after that since Mike still wanted to steer clear of me being a sourpuss. This hike helped my mood though – it’s a tough steep climb right in the beginning but then levels out pretty quickly. We then hiked Whale Rock together which is described as a large rock that kids like to play on… and Mike did have fun, so it’s an accurate description. 

 

 

I got my junior ranger badge on the Island of the Sky side. It’s definitely obvious that we’re getting into the busy season… I didn’t even ask the ranger any questions because the line of people behind me was crazy long. So, we headed to Moab for the day so we could avoid the mid day heat and the crowds at the park!

 

Recommendations

• Do your hikes, especially the longer ones, at sunrise and then after 3pm to stay out of the heat and sun. 
• Stay at the BLM campgrounds right outside the Park! The campgrounds in the park start are $15-$20, and fill up quickly.
• If you do want to stay at the campground, reserve early!  Backcountry camping here also has a fee and requires a permit which are limited.
• Want to visit more than just this park, and only do one section?  If you’re more of the adventurous type, go the Island in the Sky. You’ll be able to visit Arches National Park, but also Moab has lots of options for biking, river fun, jeeping, and more. If that’s not your cup of tea and maybe you hate crowds, go to the Needles side and make a trip to Mesa Verde too!